In the “Ghost league” – the championship of closed distilleries, where those who place themselves best become objects of worship and collection, making the prices of their bottles at auction – the competition is fierce. The 1983 massacre, with the blanket closure of so many Scotch distilleries, was undoubtedly the biggest ghost generator in history. Among them, Port Ellen and Brora are the most renowned, thanks in part to Diageo’s scientific work of “premium” valorisation of their stock. But in the Champions area, along with Rosebank, Littlemill and Imperial, there is also Glenugie. Of the distillery from Peterhead, on the east coast of Scotland, Aberdeenshire, we have so far reviewed only a monumental 23-year-old Duncan Taylor. So, in our delirium of omnipotence, we now remain in the empyrean with a 20-year-old 1966 bottled by Samaroli. Give us a bib, we are drooling over ourselves with envy alone…
N: the abv doesn’t hide, but it’s included in a first slightly hazy patina – and above all it testifies the great liveliness of this old gentleman, who remained in glass for almost 40 years. The first note that strikes is a truly explosive, exceptional tropical fruit, which we would say “papaya”. Next to it, there is a mentholated note of fresh mint leaf. A little bit of vanilla, a little bit of a malt d’antan, some white chocolate. The fruit evolves with time and becomes peach in syrup… Gradually, there’s something that reminds us of an old Clynelish, with beeswax in a big dusting – maybe a very slight peaty veil? Very complex, in constant and exhilarating evolution.
P: explosive here too, especially for the fruity side: papaya again, incredibly intense, but then also mango (with its resinous, almost balsamic tips), maracuja, some orange; sweet and ripe peach. It then attacks a sense of toasty, perhaps even slightly peaty, to give a mineral vein. It closes on the wood, with a slightly dry feeling.
F: it starts with a flame of fruit, then closes with notes of wood, butter and a bit of cream – if we said “coconut butter”, it would make sense to someone?
If 666 is the number of the Beast, 93/100 is the number of Glenugie. A mysterious whisky, that among the folds of time hides secrets that are difficult to reveal. To those who point out to us with a smile that we abuse tropicality among the descriptors (you don’t know how much we abuse it at home, Giacomo puts maracuja in caffèlatte too!), we say that this kind of fruit, so “forward”, fat and waxy, is our Zenit for whiskies over 20. We would go on nosing it forever. Thanks to Enrico Gaddoni for the sample!
Recommended soundtrack: Johnny Cash – God’s gonna cut you down. Hopefully also prices will be cut down, before or after…
