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GLENGLASSAUGH ‘PX SHERRY WOOD FINISH’ (2017, OB, 46%)

Glenglassaugh is – we can say it without fear of denial – the Cinderella-distillery of BenRiach group, skilfully led by Billy Walker towards the rich purchase by the Brown-Forman colossus: the distillery with fewer quarters of nobility, if compared to Benriach and Glendronach. And yet, poor Glenglassaugh, it must be acknowledged that the many years of closure (1986-2008) have undermined its stock and certainties: lately, as the new spirits are reaching maturity, it is being discovered that even GG knows how to give satisfaction to enthusiasts, and there are even people who tattoo its logo on their biceps. Today we are tasting a PX Sherry Wood Finish: and we know that over there the work of re-racking is a serious matter…

N: uh, well, here we are in the varied realm of sulphur. Immediately rubber and superheated copper, like a serpentine. Alcohol shoots a little bit at first. There’s blood orange and something medicinal: no TCP, but something sweet, like orange cough syrup. Then comes some vanilla pipe tobacco. It gets better with time. Now some chocolate emerges that didn’t make it: carob! Nice tamarind.

P: sweet and chewy, here comes all the PX in its magnificence. Sticky tamarind again. Then a little bit of cooked vegetables appear, some rather sweet ones, for example… carrots. Again Virginia tobacco and Haribo licorice filled with strawberry. Red orange again. In the general sweetness, even the meaty touch is sweet: cooked ham a little rancid.

F: congealed sweetness and a bit artificial. Still stuffed with Haribo, red fruit candies. Grenadine!

very full and very sweet whisky, but it is not limited to that: on the contrary, it is quite iridescent and complicated, probably not everyone will like it. On the other hand, however, it is a beautiful porthole open to the potential of sherry, even of a variety as overused and so marked as Pedro Ximenez. In the overall judgement, to our taste it pays a little bit the excessive sweetness towards the finish, but we know that many people won’t notice it and will just love it. 84/100.

Recommended soundtrack: Gang of Four – Damaged Goods.

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