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LONGMORN 23 YO (2016, OB, 48%)

A few years ago the property of Longmorn, one of the most respected distilleries in Scotland, surprised its audience of enthusiasts by revolutionizing its core range: the operation was similar to that of Mortlach for Diageo, evidently Pernod was convinced that the distillery in its portfolio to ‘premiumize’ and transform into Macallan (because, come on, we all know it) was Longmorn, which in fact is presented on the Chivas website as “the ultimate luxury single malt”. What did it all involve? Well, first Longmorn was a 15-year-old who cost 50/60€ and that’s it, the core range was over; the next day, at 50€ you could find a NAS, a 16-year-old cost 260€ and the 23-year-old came away at only 1400€, coin plus, coin minus. How did the consumers react? Well, just think that the price of the 23-year-old is now a third. Let’s stop talking nonsense, let’s taste it now…

N: very perfumed, it sticks on the mandarin (the peel when it splits, with essential oil that sprays everywhere). Sesame crunchy. Alcohol that launches some arrows, sense of furniture polish. Apricot compote. Then comes the barley and takes the scene: rusks. A very dry nose, which over time turns to furniture and old paper. Again hot and dried barley.

P: pretty aggressive for a 23-year-old; you get pepper right away. Here the first note is an evident chocolate, a marron glacée not too sweet (does it even exist?). There is some william pear, peach juice and medlar, although not so acidic. There is an unexpected savoury touch before the return of cereal and rusks. The water is good for it, makes it more creamy and juicy and integrates the alcohol better.

F: milk chocolate, peach peel and pink pepper. Medium long.

Aside from the abv being a little stiff, it’s a good whisky for sure. Which, however, does not remain in mind for particular spikes… In a general context of citrus fruits and chocolate, what stands out is the excellent contribution of the cereal and that touch of paper that for a moment makes you suspect its age. The dilution does not untie it but improves it: 85/100. Honestly, however, with the same amount of cash we can find Longmorns that are decidedly more satisfying – and we would go there.

Recommended soundtrack: The Mavericks – Dance the Night Away.

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