Lately we have discovered that Glenglassaugh, GlenDronach and BenRiach’s ‘loser cousin’, is starting to become a very entertaining little game while it’s finally coming to an age… Today we put it to the test with a review of Glenglassaugh Octaves Peated, Batch 2: these are small but varied barrels, as there are ex-Bourbon, ex-Sherry Oloroso and ex-Port. Age non stated, 44% alcohol by volume, dark amber colour – we expect exuberant wood and not too many whispers, let’s see.
N: very rich and exuberant nose, with pastry flames. Treccine with honey, sultanas and red fruit jam. Catalan cream, vanilla and caramel. Paradoxically peat is one step behind, in the form of burnt pine needles. At times the youth emerges but without being overwhelmed.
P: the abv is right: it doesn’t have a disturbing alcohol content but the whisky is sustained, nice and alive. At first glance, the vinosity comes out violently, it’s mostly the voice of Port speaking. Jams of various black fruits, with a lot of caramelized sugar (creme brulée). The sweetness is quite extreme, really pushed, but surprisingly it doesn’t bother us at all. Ink and peat (burnt wood and undergrowth).
F: slightly inked and with growing peat, between medicinal and balsamic suggestions. The wine is still powerful, but not astringent. A black fruit sauce that envelops the mouth for a long time.
A whisky that speaks clearly, that doesn’t seem to take prisoners, but that in the end isn’t pretentious at all. It finds its own friendly, stimulating dimension. Not incredibly complex, let’s be fair, but definitely enjoyable. Surely suitable for crazy gastronomic couplings, for the wild experiments of the most hardened sinners: 86/100.
Recommended soundtrack: Khruangbin – Summer Madness.