Wilson & Morgan is a brand that is very popular on these pages: since the beginning of our career as drunk… uh, wait, as tasters, we have appreciated their ability to offer malts of all classes and types, always at reasonable prices and always maintaining a strong identity – which, we believe, is the hardest thing to do when your job is “independent bottler”. We know that Fabio Rossi likes ‘important’ whiskies, aged in sherry barrels: last year’s releases include a 13-year-old Macduff, a Sherry Butt 1st fill Sherry Butt with an intense copper color, bottled at 57,1% (we believe this is a reduction, as the classic “100 Proof” is shown on the label).
N: from the very first sniff, it shows that it’s a sherry monster, through and through. Very dirty, with notes of bacon chips, vanilla flavoured cigars, tobacco leaves. Heavy hints of citrus: chinotto, which brings no freshness. Plum and blackberry jam, very reminiscent of the central part of a tart; there are also sulphurous hints. Very interesting indeed, really bold but delicious..
P: practically non-alcoholic, the alcohol was forgotten in the warehouse. Very loaded, with caramel, bitter chocolate and a lot of burnt plum jam (generally: tart with slightly burnt wholemeal mixture). The wood is there, with some spicy notes; ah, we were forgetting the sour cherries in spirit, explosive! And still a touch of sulphur/dirt, made of glazed bacon and a memory of tobacco. Something toasty, too…
F: long and persistent, bitter cocoa, chinotto, cola and even something apparently peaty – it’s the effect of bacon and wood, let’s face it.
This is a whisky build in perfect Wilson & Morgan style: great quality, great intensity, so much complexity in a bold, assertive, explosive and at the same time (miracle!) very drinkable profile. It has no off notes, since those sulphurous tips are perfectly integrated in the context, and has no real flaws, it remains incredibly pleasant. We know that when Fabio decides to bottle ex-sherry barrels, he hardly makes a mistake: 87/100.
Recommended soundtrack: Tomatito & Camaron De La Isla – La Voz del Tiempo.