We stay right here where we are, and as we promised we’ll taste another Glen Grant; and we must thank Pino Perrone (mastermind of Rome Whisky Festival, bibliophile, censor of public vices of the whisky world and manager of the temple of single malt in Rome, Whisky & Co) for the sample. The dram we have in the glass is a GG ‘Five Decades’, a NAS vatting of casks from the five decades in which the legendary distillery manager Dennis Malcolm has worked for Glen Grant. Colour is light straw.
Restiamo sul luogo del delitto e, come promesso, assaggiamo un altro Glen Grant; e dobbiamo ringraziare Pino Perrone (mastermind dello Spirit of Scotland, bibliofilo, censore dei pubblici vizi del mondo del whisky e futuro gestore di quello che si prospetta essere il tempio del single malt naa Capitale – ma di questo parleremo a tempo debito) per il sample. Il whisky che abbiamo nel bicchiere è un GG ‘Five Decades’, ovvero un vatting senza età dichiarata contenente botti delle cinque decadi in cui il distillery manager Dennis Malcolm è stato impiegato tra le stanze di Glen Grant. Il colore è paglierino chiaro chiaro.
N: compared to the other, it’s more closed, more pungent, with a simpler phisionomy but different too. There’s an evident acidity (on the nose? what are you talking about guys?), that reminds us of white yogurt and lemon in every shape. It seems that the younger decade took the lead here, with yeast and candied fruit on the front. Malty notes and almonds, that recall the glorious 5 yo… Not so expressive, in the end.
P: coherent, but luckily with some twists on the theme, mostly concerning general impression and stucture. Let’s be clear: yeast, candied fruit and acidity are still there, but they ain’t the only instruments in the orchestra – enriched here by ripe fruity notes, sweet, with yellow apples and some caramel. This flavor mix is sustained by a convincing body, that makes those flavors more percussive and pleasant. GG’s malty notes are there too.
F: acid and biscuity at the same time; clean but not that long.
The nose alone would have led to a hatchet job, with no hesitation; luckily there’s the palate, even if it doesn’t get that far from a young Speysider (that’s what we’d think if we had it blind). The average of the two feelings leads to a 77/100, and we’re a bit disappointed because we had higher expectations. We thought that the 10 yo would have been the handmaid of an exclusive and limited bottling, but the relationship is inverse here. Be it a warning. We didn’t take price into account while giving a vote, but we must say it’s insane (it’s 140€: at the same price you can buy ten bottles of the 5 yo, which we reviewed with a slightly lower score).
Recommended soundtrack: Leonard Cohen – Slow.