Today we face a particular whisky, a vintage Highland Park whisky (which is already rare in itself) mostly matured in American oak barrels ‘aged’ in Sherry. Speaking now about the influence of barrels and their former content would be very long, and there are those who can do it much better than us. But let’s quote the words of Gerry Tosh of HP: “The biggest single influence on whisky flavor is the oak in which the whisky matures. At Highland Park we use expensive sherry seasoned casks [i.e. ‘virgin’ barrels filled for some time with sherry, n.d.wf.]; those made from American oak give the whisky soft, creamy vanilla and coconut sweet flavours which allow the aromatic smokiness of our whisky to fully express itself. Some refill European oak sherry seasoned casks have been used in the 1997 vintage to provide complexity, citrus sweetness and that all-important Highland Park sense of balance”. Let’s see how all these words behave once in the glass.
N: the nose shows all the characteristics of Highland Park, starting with some very intriguing and very distinctive mineral notes. A bit of brine (could we venture, pickled capers?). Next to it, slowly grow ‘sweet’ and fruity notes, which confirm what we know about ageing: cooked fruit, above all (plums in quantity, raisins), even if it is not at all a heavy profile, thanks to a contribution of light licorice, yellow fruit and vanilla. Marzipan.
P: compared to the nose, it also has slightly smoky notes, which give depth to a range of rather intense flavors: vanilla, créme caramel, then dried fruit (hazelnut … indeed, milk chocolate with hazelnut). Citrus fruit nuances and lots of crispy malt (rusks), always with bitter notes. Tips of red fruits, here and there. You can taste the dichotomy honey/malt. Lovely elegance and roundness, but with intriguing edges.
F: not very long, but intense, all on malt and red fruits. Vanilla.
It’s a 12 years old: there’s no comparison with the official 12, and maybe not even with the 15 yo. This vintage, originally only for duty free, is definitely better, more complex, more satisfying: you can recognize the influence of sherry and everything is more intense, despite the abv. Very well done, we like it very much. 85/100 is our opinion, and here you can read the tasting notes by Gavin and Tom.
Recommended soundtrack: Talking Heads – Take me to the river.
