After a small digression on the GlenDronach, we dive back in on last Monday’s tasting, facing the most controversial of the malts. This is a 1991 Bowmore aged for 16 years in Port barrels: it is not the ‘usual’ wine-finish but a rather unique full maturation. The color is light copper.
N: the Bowmore soul was not intimidated by the Port: you can smell the iodine and peaty notes, there is a lot of marinity here. The island’s profile survives, under a winey and rather sweet blanket: strawberry (strawberry jam?), cooked fruit (especially plums and apples), licorice and… Port. Especially after a few moments, the wine makes its presence even more evident.
P: coal note still holds out, but here comes out that “soapiness” recognizable in many Bowmore of these years. Together with Port, the effect is a slightly ‘chemical’ sweetness, like violet candies; a bit loose, not intense nor flaming. The support of Port (we couldn’t resist) is limited to offering a sweet, sugary and vinous arrival (very ‘candy’ style, in fact), with notes of licorice and some shy mentholated hints.
F: same as above. Smoky and sweetish.
It’s not bad, we must admit, but it’s certainly not a big deal. Balanced but simple: the marine side and its persistence are the positive notes. For the rest, it doesn’t seem different from some wine-finish (like some Distiller’s edition): not unforgettable, and not as particular as one might expect. 81/100 seems balanced to us; Serge, however, liked it more.
Recommended soundtrack: Average white band – Pick up the pieces.
