Benromach, a distillery owned by Gordon & MacPhail, is one of our favorite and we often praise it for its whiskies high quality. This new expression of the core range has just been released: a 15 yo arriving after the 5 yo, the 10 yo, the 10 yo cask strength and the Organic (we reviewed the former release). We received a sample directly from the distillery, let’s test it together. And many thanks to Juliette.
N: nice, rich and open. Beside a clear “dirty” and peaty note (light smoke and leather), the core of the whisky is citrusy: overripe blood orange zest. Everything is wrapped by a bourbony creaminess, reminding to vanilla and maple syrup. A touch of sultanas and stewed fruits (apples and plums) complete the olfactive picture. With time, that initial dirty note evolves towards copper (those old grandma’s pots…).
P: same thing, the tasting process is divided in two different stages. But do not think about a schizophrenic malt. Actually, the two-faced malt tastes like a complex, unique thing. The attack is rich but really sharp: the earthy and waxy notes are predominant, with a strong peaty minerality. It seems you’re sipping a laundry! There’s also a hint of black olives. Otherwise, an intense sweetness explodes after this: a compact sensation of stewed plums, honey, fermented tropical fruits (official tasting notes mention kiwifruit…). Orange peel.
F: acrid burnt umber and smoke. Salty licorice, essential oil of blood orange. And with this insane last comment we bow to ourselves.
This whisky’s got a great personality, confirming our excellent impression from the 10 yo. If we were to compare it with something more popular, we’d say a Campbeltown whisky, middleway between an extreme Kilkerran or a gentle Longrow… It’s certainly an unusual whisky, reminding us some whiskies from the past. And we love it so much. 90/100 and a standing ovation to a distillery which is earning a place of honour in our heart.
Recommended soundtrack: Red Hot Chili Peppers – Warped.
