At the last Milano Whisky Festival the good Riccardo Guadagni, former bartender of the historic Bar Metro, approached us in a shady and circumspect manner – let’s say he made his education in a beautiful environment, there, and with a master of exception like Giorgio D’Ambrosio. Hidden inside the raincoat he had a 25 year old Springbank bottle, bottled by Rest & Be Thankful for the Asian market (for Liquid Gold, to be precise). We will taste it today, and in the next few days we will compare it with another independent Springbank, also for the Asian market, both aged in a single cask ex-sherry – also passed off by Riccardo, to whom we are particularly grateful, you will understand.
694/5000the nose is splendid. There are notes of carambola, there is a fresh hint of camphor, then cooked apple, yellow apple (apple peel), someone even says green apple. In short, apple and lots of yellow fruit. The typical minerality of Springbank here is revealed with a patina as oxidized, from whiskey of the past, with that vaguely waxy cerealosity… There is no seaworthiness, at least in the nose. An unknown drinker, who’s tasting with us, in order to enclose the contradictory sense of the mix of freshness and depth, launches himself in the evocative image “it’s like a seventeen-year-old milf”, and a fourth figure, which we do not mention in order not to make him suffer legitimate accusations of sexism, he adds “with two big melons, like that”. Ok…
P: damn it! It has a side of amazing tropical fruit, very intense and above all unpublished for Springbank, of a frankly devastating variety and explosiveness. 50 shades of fruit: coconut, maracuja, passion fruit, peach, again a lot of apple… Then here comes a patina of wax. A convincing note of salty licorice, and with menthol veins. Here comes also the usual flavor of Springbank, mild, with a suggestive hint of seaweed. What a show, blessed are the Asians!
F: long, persistent, with sugary notes of almond and marzipan, after a very first tropical flare, absolutely (we repeat it) devastating.
It is something spectacular, simply. We have already written it a few times during the review, but who has ever found such tropicality in a contemporary Springbank ?! Truly splendid, fresh and fruity and at the same time endowed with that depth of barley that only in Springbank we can find: even if it lacks the completely coastal dimension that we are used to consider a hallmark of the Campbeltown distillery, we really can’t complain. Enchanting: 92/100.
Sottofondo musicale consigliato: Serge Gainsbourg – Daisy Temple.