Only few days are missing before the awaited beginning of the Milano Whisky festival and we are trying some of the whiskies we will suggest for our mini tastings at the stand of Beija Flor. Today it’s time for Kilkerran, the name of the malt distilled at Glengyle, in Campbeltown. Since 2004, thanks to the fundamental support of the near Springbank, the decision to reopen one of the historical distilleries
of the region, closed since 1925. Every year 2 bottlings “work in progress” reach the market, one aged in ex-bourbon cask the other ex-sherry, to witness the passing of time until the distillate reaches 10yo, in this year 2014. So the first piece of the core range is almost there…
N: very particular, it develops with great complexity a vegetal and mineral side which becomes the starring, and it’s quite unusual… For sure: fresh grass, wet soil and leafs, brine; everything chased by a wee smoky peat (just a bit smoky, like raw bacon) and nice citrusy notes. Lemon zest (lemon seed) and candied cedar. This is not a holding back profile, it’s rather austere, mineral and sharp, with only a suggestion, here and there of vanilla. Also fragrant flowers.
P: also here it’s mineral and tasty, without explosions of pronounced sweetness. It has a great intensity, again with a citrusy wall (lemon). Altogether vegetal and oily, malted and peated: the smokiness is sly
but growing and fascinating; it’s everything but sweet, but not even bitter, cask and wood seem absent. Perhaps a bit salty? Brine? An alluded vanilla ties everything without disturbing.
F: delicate, but persistent, despite a firm smokiness. Sugary chamomile with a hint of salt.
Guys and girls, what a pleasant surprise this bottling! We followed lacking bit of focus and almost careless the evolution of Glengyle, but we really got surprised in front of such a personality, in perfect Springbank style. It’s indeed “dirty” and nervous but elegant, recognizable but not noisy. Who appreciates this very particular style, hardly will get tired of sipping this Kilkerran, helped also by a very
interesting quality/price ratio. We reward it with a nice 88/100.
Recommended soundtrack: Gérard Lenorman – Michèle
