Milan Whisky Festival will be held in two weeks and – reading the list of exhibitors – the presence of the independent bottler Samaroli stands out among the most important and welcome novelties. To celebrate Silvano’s 45 years of activity, Antonio Bleve will hold, among other things, a high-level masterclass; we won’t be able to be there, so today we look for comfort in the reassuring oblivion generated by alcohol fumes, more precisely those of a Clynelish from the Glen Cawdor series, the line of Samaroli malts bottled in pretty 50 centilitre bottles.
N: the alcohol is a bit too present, but we’re in the middle of the Samaroli world: gentle dram, very ‘naked’, close to the pure distillate (candied fruit, grappa, white wine, yeasts, malt and herbaceous hints). Then, a clear note of green apple. The barrel of bourbon is very discreet, with banana yogurt, yellow plums. The wax, a distinctive feature of the distillery, is not particularly detectable, while the mineral suggestions are strong. Slightly peaty.
P: also on the palate it is a splendid naked Clynelish. There is all the yellow fruit of the nose, but very much on the side. The stage is taken by the distillate – white wine and candied fruit – with a very intense entrance in the mouth. Still great mineral notes, savoury and peaty, the latter increasing compared to the nose. A suggestion of wax persists, while the great loser is wood. Finally, bitter chocolate. Beyond the flavors we have captured, it must be said that the intensity and overall quality of the taste experience are on excellent levels.
F: herbaceous and not very sweet. Bitter chocolate. Still incredibly faithful to the distillate; clean and of medium duration.
We have become accustomed to appreciate the elegance and kindness of Samaroli’s bottling, often characterized by a reduction in alcohol during bottling to 45 degrees and the choice of not too active single casks. In this medium-aged Clynelish, however, this characteristic is associated – we repeat – with a fullness and incisiveness both on the nose and on the palate that frankly surprised us. In short, if you find it at the Festival, taste it. And if you don’t like it, complain to us! Meanwhile, we gray bureaucrats of Single Malt quantify our rating in 87/100.
Recommended soundtrack: you don’t like the Brazilian music we play from time to time. Get Bruno Lauzi – The Turtle