The Bowmore’s limited edition for Feis Ile 2013 (1000 bottles) is a whisky matured only in bourbon casks for an undeclared time; Davide, who had drunk it at the distillery, warned us that in his opinion this was one of the best bottlings in the festival lot. Also Claudio, in an interview a few days ago, told us that according to him Bowmore is the Islay’s distillery that has perhaps worked best in recent years. Let’s put our nose on this whisky then, after having noticed the light straw color.
N: the peat is not “monstrous” at all, but – consistent with the style of the house – it is actually quite gentle; and gentle is also the smoke, while a discreet marinity makes room with time. In addition to generous whiffs of lemon, you can smell the young malt (with notes of fresh grass, candied citrus fruit: cedar?) and a faint creaminess from the American oak (light vanilla, light white chocolate … yogurt snack?). Despite being bottled at cask strength, it is not an overflowing, crowd-pleasing whisky: it’s very austere indeed, with exquisite mineral notes. It wears its (few) years with ease. A pit of aniseed, with still fresh and floral notes; freshly cut wood, reminiscent of certain coniferous threes, immediately after the rain… It seems at times to reveal a fruity side ‘in might’, which could be unleashed at any moment: actually, the addition of water does not seem to change much, expanding the marine side, but just a bit.
P: very soft alcohol; the entrance is still mineral and austere, divided between intense marine notes (sea water) and very a lemony, citrusy side (still candied). Still fresh grass, it’s very ‘grainy’ (no rusks, just cereal); then, however, suddenly you taste something almost unexpected: an intense yellow fruit, not cloying, with very good tropical notes (unripe banana, coconut, pineapple!). Smokiness remains very mild. The water tends to intensify a note that we often find in Bowmore’s, a lemon gummy candy… Is the distillate finally unleashed?
F: peat returns, almost absent from the palate, in the form of an “acrid ash”. Very clean and pleasantly fresh, herbaceous.
Really good, yes. It’s striking for a simple reason: ‘today’s’ whiskies are often accused to be “engineered”, definetely more focused on wood than on distillate. This, on the other hand, is an honest malt, which does not hide a certain youth and indeed exhibits it, with pride and elegance. And then, in short, it is good! We have never completely fallen in love with Bowmore, but perhaps this bottling will induce us to change our prejudices… Meanwhile, here is an 87/100.
Recommended soundtrack: Rose Royce – Wishing on a star.
