Until 2009, this Glencadam 15 yo was bottled at different ABV depending on the different releases. That year, the owner (Angus Dundee, who bought the distillery in 2003) decided to streamline the range, passing definetely to a 46% ABV. The magic Ralfy awarded it as Best whisky of 2017, but now it must come through the gauntlet of our cruel (and completely unnecessary) judgement.
N: it’s a whisky only apparently fresh and cheerful. Actually, a deep dialogue between two secret souls is detectable: on one hand the “easy & creamy” side, with creme brulée, vanilla pudding and custard, with a hint of ripe fruits, as pear; on the other hand a more severe side, certainly dominated by an intense citrusy and mineral note (lemon essential oil?). Even something vegetal, like sage. To be more precise: lemon and sage candies.
P: increasing the ABV surely improved the impact and provided a comfortable warmth. It naturally and easily unleash the same intense creaminess, without ignoring astonishingly integrated malty notes (someone would say: it tastes like a whisky!) and almonds. Still very citrusy, with heavy whiffs of lemon.
F: a bit pungent, reminding lemon (or maybe lemon curd) with a bit of salt. The cereal mouthfeel is persistent, with nuts again.
It’s still available at 50 euro on some German websites. Everywhere it seems to be sold out. Who knows? Very polite, it’s well balanced without derailing towards the mere austerity or the easiest pleasure. Maybe we took a fancy to the distillery, but we give a satisfied 87/100.
Recommended soundtrack: Goldfrapp – Strict Machine.
