The distillery doesn’t enjoy universal appreciation, as we know; the basic bottling, the 12 yo, has already made us quite depressed, but our thirst (for knowledge, of course) is bigger than our previous disappointment, so we took home a sample of this 2013 Diageo ‘special release’ from the latest Milano Whisky Festival. The reason is simple: the Cardhu 21 was the third of five whiskies poured at the spectacular Diageo masterclass, which was indeed breathtaking for the simultaneous presence of Brora 2013 OB and Port Ellen 2013 OB. You know, the enormous sensory spectrum of whisky must be wholly explored. But let’s cut this this snooping, no preemptive rejections!
N: mmm, it’s suddenly biting; then, a nice open and easily aromatic profile. It’s like entering an Arab pastry shop: figs, honey, mixed nuts (caramelized almonds). Surely it’s nicely sherry-oriented, even if it’s a very ‘fresh’ and juicy version of sherried malt; blackberry and strawberry gelée; completely lacking any ‘dirty’ or deep note. Everything is completed by fresh wood, a hint of shoe polish and another hint of menthol.
P: still alcoholic, of course; the body is not very dense nor chewable: it manages to be thin but tasty at the same time. Yes, because there are intense notes of apricot croissant, peach juice, orange soda and some red fruits. Later, a distinct taste of malt reminding us of the 12 year old… This is because of an unfortunately monochord and fragile distillate, overwhelmed by the casks influence. A good amount of dried nuts.
F: not bad; long, on dried nuts and juicy fruit again.
A very ‘modern’ sherried malt, not so deep; certainly focused on wood, with something malty and an excessive alcoholic bite, more evident on the palate… At least there is sweetness, but – as already said – we are not enthusiastic about its ease. No dramas, for goodness sake: 80/100 will be the maximum peak that this Cardhu will reach in our pages.
Recommended soundtrack: Gershwin – Rhapsody in Blue.
